Rambling Thoughts
Icons - Che. American cars from the Fifties. Hemingway. Jose Marti. Laundry hanging. These are the images that were most imprinted on my mind during my time in Havana (in that order). Interestingly, I only saw one poster with Fidel on it (at the cigar factory) and only one poster with Raul (the poster was of Raul and Obama). The predominant architectural icons of the Havana skyline are Morro Castle and the Russian Embassy.
Art - There are many small art galleries along the streets of Old Havana. I was surprised to see many pieces that were not traditional, like the painting of the guy asleep in bed with the sheets pulled up to his chin. Except that the sheets and the wall paper of his bedroom had guns on them all pointing to his head. I'd love to spend more time in these small galleries and in many of the other galleries to see the contemporary and well as traditional art that resides in Cuba.
Music – All of the music that I heard, and there was music everywhere, had a crystal clarity of tone and timing that I've never heard before. Street musicians singing harmonies exceeding any Everly Brothers/Simon and Garfunkel types that we so revere here in the US. Upon our return to the US, our first stop was Key West, where there's someone playing a guitar and singing songs in every bar you pass. For the most part, these guys were jarring hacks in contrast to the musicians that I heard in Havana. Some of the musicians I heard while walking around Havana included...
- The trio at La Fontana Bar and Grill; singer, piano, flute. They did contemporary songs in an elegant way.
- The string quartet playing classical pieces in the lobby of a hotel
- The two guys in Plaza Vieja; one playing the guitar, the other doing percussion on a jawbone of an ass.
- The trio at the Hemingway statue at Cojimar; two guitars and a guy in a wheelchair playing maracas.
- The lone flautist sitting on the steps of a hotel playing clear and strong and soft.
- Three guys on the street; guitar, bongos, percussion.
- Small orchestra group at Floridita
- Manicero; The woman peanut vendor who sang the traditional manicero song that rose above the general din of the city so that you could hear her from a block away as if she were standing right next to you.
Americans as $$$ - Like any other tourist city, there are people trying to make money in any way that they can. There was the guy that seemed to be dressed as an old-time Cuban with Panama hat, cane and fake cigar that you could take a photo with. The fortune tellers in Plaza Vieja. The roaming caricature artists. The brightly colored ladies in traditional Cuban costume who came up putting arm-in-arm wanted to take a photo with you. The peanut vendors selling peanuts in wrapped, white paper cones. The guy that “gave” me a Cuban and American printing of the latest Granma publication. The woman who appeared to not be able to speak, but through various charade-like gestures, seemed to want to “dance” or “kiss” or “hug” or something. The group of people who were dressed in the finest, most colorful, Mardi-Gras like costumes, marching and playing drums and horns, on stilts. And, like in any other city, there were a couple of people who just outright begged. Of course, all of my street donations went to the incredible musicians.
Danger?- I was as aware of my surroundings and as protective of my wallet and back pack as much as I would be in any US city. I never once felt in danger or uncomfortable at all (except with that lady who couldn't speak and wanted to “hug” or “dance” or something).
Restrooms – Never saw one that I couldn't use. Just a couple with no seats. Definitely take a roll of toilet paper with you at all times. There were only a couple of restrooms that were out of TP. It's great to have some with you just in case. Also, if you turn on the sink faucet and no water comes out, try to see if the supply valve is turned on. It seems that this is how they get around leaking faucets. Once you are done, turn the supply off again.
Fly Swatters – Invaluable on the boat as flies seemed to be everywhere.
Water – Don't drink the water. That's what we were told. So, rum and beer (Cristal and Bucanero) are always good alternatives. Although I only drank bottled water, I did have some drinks with ice. It didn't seem to bother me.
Clean Diesel – Filled up at Marina Hemingway fuel dock. No problems with the fuel.
Contrasts - Stark contrasts abound side by side...
- Luxury, 5-star resorts to small shacks.
- Ornate, colonial buildings from the 1800's to 50's grand architecture to Sixties square block buildings
- Restored Fifties American Classic Cars to horse drawn carts (Not the "tour Central Park" kind, but the "this is how we get around" kind)
- Che to Hemingway
- Revolution Square to Plaza Vieja
